Preservatives and antioxidants

Preservatives

Along with detergents and emulsifiers, preservatives are the cosmetic ingredients that always cause concern for those of us wanting a more Green and natural Skin Care Product.

To have the phrase "preservative free" is probably the Holy Grail of natural cosmetics, but it really isn't possible for most commercial products because they are made in huge quantities a long time in advance of sale. This is when making your own cosmetics has definite benefits, as you can make small amounts that needs fewer, if any preservatives.

Any product made using water needs a preservative to stop it going off  and becoming both unpleasant and potentially harmful. if you want to avoid preservatives completely you only choice is to either make a very small amount and keep it in the fridge using within a week or two at most.Products that contain botanical extracts-such as herbal infusions and flower waters -have a much higher risk of contamination by yeast, fungus, and water-borne bacteria, and so need extra preservatives.

Preservatives are placed under constant scrutiny by regulatory bodies, because , by their very nature  (killing micro-organisms), they can be harmful to us too. It is quite common to use two or even three preservatives in a blend to ensure that all contimiants are eradicated. For example, some are good yeast inhibitors  but are not affective against water borne bacteria. Other factors that determine the effectiveness of a preservative are the pH of the product and its compatibility with other ingredients, such as emulsifiers and detergents.

Parabens
These are the most controversial of the preservatives. At one time they were used by most skincare companies as they were both effective and unlikely to cause allergic reactions. However many of the Natural Skin care Brands started reformulating products, due to a study (which has since been discredited ) that linked parabens in deodorant to breast cancer.

Currently, the American Cancer Society says that there is no scientific evidence that parabens increase the risk of breast cancer, and the FDA consider them safe to be used in cosmetic products. However, just because there is no current evidence, it doesn't mean that there are no long-term affects, and you will need to decide for yourself if you are prepared to take the risk or not.

It is worth mentioning that anything that is rinsed off the body, such as a shower gel is likely to be absorbed into the skin than a leave-on product, such as cream or lotion.

Suitable Preservatives
Other main problems with preservatives are their propensity to cause allergic reactions, plus safety issues such as some being formaldehyde releasers. Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexlyglycerin, Benzl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium, Potassium, Sorbate, Leucidal, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol.

Antioxidants
Many publications quote wrongly call ingredients such as vitamin E and rosemary seed extract "preservatives" when in fact they are antioxidants,. So what is the difference? Oxidation occurs when the product comes into contact with the air and starts to break down or go rancid.

Just as an apple turns brown if the skin has been cut. It is a natural process of decay. No outside factors or contimants need be involved, it's just something that happens naturally as the molecules react with the oxygen in the air.

Keeping products in airless packaging and using antioxidants , such as vitamin E and rosemary seed, will slow down this process.

Reference: Natural Beauty/ Karen Gilbert