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We've bleached, relaxed, and damaged our hair to make ourselves look more white
We've bleached, relaxed, and damaged our hair to make ourselves look more white
When I finally grew my old highlights long enough to cut them out, I felt free and excited.
As a teenager who desperately hated all aspects of my appearance that make me look ‘other’ – like dark thick hair – I’d do what I could to mimic Caucasian ideals of beauty.
Getting blonde and honey toned highlights was one of those things. It was expensive to maintain, not to mention the damage, and ultimately I was doing it for the wrong reasons – to look more attractive to men.
Towards the end of my time at university, I decided I was fed up of hating my looks, and slowly began a ‘fake it till you make it’ attitude, telling myself that I liked my features – until one day, I could say it truthfully.
It took months of self-love work, and it was a relief when I finally decided to embrace my natural deep brunette. (And actually liked what looked back at me in the mirror overall).
While reaching for bleach is one way of trying to conform to a certain beauty ideal, for others that might look like relaxing Afro textured hair.
Patience Chigodora, 30, living in Nottingham and London, knows this only too well, having gone on her own hair journey.
‘About six years ago, I made the decision to stop relaxing my hair,’ she says.
‘Growing up, my parents ignited the conforming to a Caucasian aesthetic by chemically relaxing my hair at a young age, intending to make it more “manageable.” Kacey Dirkseni BLEACHED my own hair and THIS HAPPENED…
‘When I moved to the UK and attended school with predominantly white children, I felt a growing insecurity about my coily textured hair. I wanted long, wavy hair that would fit into the mainstream beauty standards and draw less attention.
Patience’s natural hair would always ‘become a topic of conversation at school’, and would be criticised when wearing braided hairstyles with added highlights.
Research in academic journal Sex Roles reads that ‘Women of Colour are subject to unique pressures regarding their appearance due to racialised beauty standards and the pre-eminence of White features (e.g., skin tone and hair texture)’, so it’s no wonder these experiences of inadequacy around hair set in young.
Patience continued relaxing her hair until the age of 23, ‘enduring discomfort and scalp burns from the chemical treatments’.
Inspired by friends who had gone natural, Patience decided it was time for her to as well.
‘I realised that my hair was an integral part of my unique identity as a Black woman, and it was time to embrace it fully.
‘I learned to appreciate the beauty of shrinkage, which I had disliked for so long, and take it as a sign of healthy hair.
‘The chemicals had suppressed my natural curl and coil pattern, giving my hair an unnatural stiffness that didn’t reflect my true self.
‘Today, I proudly celebrate my beautiful natural 4a, 4b, and 4c combo curl and coil pattern, free from chemical treatments.’
Though there’s nothing wrong in changing your hair for yourself – if I go blonde again, or Patience chooses to relax her hair again one day for the sake of trying a new style, that’s okay – the reality is that for many people, the decision to emulate whiteness can be rooted in racialised, Caucasian beauty standards, consciously or not.
‘Embracing my coily, textured hair has been an immensely liberating experience,’ Patience adds. ‘I’ve learned to defy societal pressures that once sought to impose Eurocentric standards upon me.’
Dr Roberta Babb, a HCPC registered clinical psychologist who specialises in racial issues, says it’s never just a superficial issue – these beauty ideals, upheld by most, can have serious impacts on a person mentally.
‘The decision to change your hair to align with styles or colours typically associated with European hair may reflect a complex interplay of factors related to self-worth, identity, and perceptions of beauty,’ she says.
‘Some people may believe that conforming will increase their sense of their self-worth, make them more attractive or socially accepted.
‘But it can also reflect the desire to belong and avoid potential discrimination or marginalisation.’
Of course, self expression is a valid reason for changing hair too, Dr Babb points out, but ‘there can be unconscious elements at play in the decisions we make about our hair’.
After years of altering appearances, it can be empowering to go back to what’s natural.
‘It can be a transformative experience as it represents a shift in the relationship a person has with themselves and their intersectional identity, self-worth and perceptions of beauty,’ Dr Babb explains.
‘Embracing your natural hair can signify a significant step in the personal journey toward self-acceptance. It can be a powerful visual statement that assert’s pride in one’s heritage.’
As a result, a person might find their confidence grows.
How we style and wear our hair can tell us more about a person’s self-worth than we think.
And me? I love my thick and dark hair now – bleach doesn’t come near it.
8 Ways To Get Oily Skin Under Control ASAP
8 Ways To Get Oily Skin Under Control ASAP
We know by now that oily skin isn’t necessarily the enemy, although sometimes, it can sure feel like it.
A completely matte complexion might not be something to aspire to, but there is satisfaction to be found in balance: after all, your skin needs oil, but an excess of the shiny stuff is less than appealing.
The thing to remember though, is that you can’t ‘get rid’ of oily skin entirely, and nor should you feel compelled to: real, healthy skin doesn't look like an Instagram filter.
But keeping your face on the right side of shiny? That is totally possible. Understanding your oily skin is the key to managing (not eliminating) it, and once harmony is restored, you'll have a happy, healthy complexion that looks glowy, never greasy.
To finally sort fact from fiction, we grilled the experts for some sage advice on keeping oily skin as its healthiest, most resilient state. Here, see everything you need to know, including the reasons your skin feels oilier than usual, and the best treatments to try now...
What causes oily skin?
'Our skin’s oil is called sebum. It’s produced by the sebaceous gland in the hair follicle,' explains Andrea Pfeffer, founder of Pfeffer Sal. 'Per cm2, the skin on our face has more hair follicles than on the rest of our body, which is why we experience oiliness mainly on the face.'
This sebum does in fact perform an important function, working to 'lubricate the skin, limit the growth of bacteria and prevent dryness and dehydration,' adds Pfeffer.
When things are in balance, your skin will produce just the right amount of oil to keep it functioning and resilient – but there are many things that can tip the scales, leading to excess oil and pesky breakouts.
So, what's the best route to balanced, hydrated skin? Below, see 8 things to consider now.
8 Ways To Manage Oily Skin
1. Master Your Daily Cleansing Routine
When you have oily skin, the urge to wash your face at every available opportunity can be strong. But according to facialist Joanne Evans, your frequent face-washing habit may actually be making things worse.
'It seems logical that removing the skin’s oil would be the best way to clear oily skin, but over-cleansing actually activates further oil production,' she says. Simply speaking, when you cleanse so much you remove the skin’s natural – and necessary – sebum reserves, it’s going to rectify things by producing more.
Pamela Marshall, Clinical Aesthetician and founder of skin clinic Mortar & Milk, says that she tends to see over-cleansing in her younger clients – which makes sense, considering all the alcohol-laden, barrier-stripping cleansers marketed towards hormonal teenage skin. 'Unfortunately, over-cleansing just makes the problem worse,' she confirms. 'The more you deplete the oils from your skin, the more your skin will want to produce oil. Cleansing properly (not over cleansing!) and adding hydration is the key to reducing oil production.'
Clearly, the cleanser you choose is crucial – but between milks and gels, foams and water, it can be near-impossible to decide which one is best for an oil-prone complexion.
Pfeffer recommends a cream or milky cleanser, as these will dissolve dirt and debris without disturbing the barrier function and natural moisture levels of the skin. 'You can also go for a cleanser with BHAs (or salicylic acid) in to really assist in dissolving excess oil,' she suggests.
Marshall agrees, always advising her oily-skinned clients to use 'milky, creamy balmy cleansers.' Equally important is the way you remove said cleanser: 'Always, always remove your cleanser with a clean flannel. There's no splashing in skincare!'
So, don’t be fooled by that super-strength, alcohol-steeped cleanser that claims to be formulated for oily skin. Which leads us on to...
2. Be Wary Of Products Formulated For Oily Skin
Believe it or not, products specially formulated for minimising oiliness often exacerbate the situation, as so many contain harsh ingredients that sweep away every last drop of sebum from the skin (and we all know what that means).
'We were taught for so long that stripping the skin of oils is the way to treat it, but actually that's wrong. When the skin is stripped or dried out it goes into oil production overload,' says Marshall.
According to Pfeffer, the main culprits are products containing alcohols, astringents and sulphates, while Marshall adds benzoyl peroxide and daily AHAs into the mix too.
'This means many old-school toners and foaming cleansers are off the table – and for good reason!', she says. 'Whilst they’ll have a satisfying short-term effect of removing the excess oil on the surface of the skin, over time the lack of oil in your skin will trigger excess oil production.'
Furthermore, these harsh products can interfere with your acid mantle: the skin's protective barrier. 'A disrupted skin barrier can lead to sensitivity, breakouts, inflammation and dehydration,' warns Pfeffer. So, the verdict is clear: if any products in your routine are making your skin feel dry and tight, give them the boot.
3. Don't Ditch The Moisturiser
A common misconception is that skin can either be oily or dehydrated – but in fact, it can be both at the same time. This means there’s little sense in ditching the hydrating products which are, in fact, essential in every skin routine – no matter your skin type.
Hydrating products are necessary to maintain moisture levels and prevent dehydration. But before you reach for the first face cream within your grasp, consider that your choice of product is an important one. If you're worried about blackheads and blemishes as well as that dreaded shine, it's best to avoid those that are super-creamy, heavy and occlusive. 'Your skin probably won’t appreciate thick heavy moisturisers, so avoid any creams with rich plant butters as these are likely to be too rich and lead to congestion,' advises Pfeffer.
4. Get To Grips With Salicylic
Acids can be beneficial in any regime, but leave-on BHAs like salicylic acid play an especially important role in controlling overzealous oil production, which in turn minimises the development of blackheads and blemishes.
'Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid which is lipophilic, meaning it is attracted to and helps to break down excess oil,' says Pfeffer. 'As an added bonus, it’s anti-inflammatory and can penetrate pores to scoop out any debris, making it a great ingredient for targeting the congestion that often comes with oiliness.'
The best way to incorporate salicylic acid into your routine is with a daily exfoliant, swiped over skin after cleansing. Paula's Choice 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant is perhaps the most-adored, and for good reason: it really works. Just don't make the mistake of rinsing it off: it'll be nowhere near as effective at sweeping away any greasiness. If you're using a salicylic acid cleanser instead, leave it on for two minutes before washing (a great opportunity for a little facial massage).
5. Address Your Diet
According to Evans, the root of your oily skin issues could actually lie in your gut. 'If you suffer from oily skin, avoid sugar and dairy, as they feed and increase oil production,' she explains.'What’s more, a diet deficient in zinc, magnesium, vitamin B and omega 3 may contribute to oil production.'
Pfeffer agrees, recommending in particular that we eat more zinc-rich foods. 'Zinc helps to regulate the oil-producing glands, so they behave better! Great sources include shellfish, legumes and nuts.'
And of course, it’s crucial to consider your intake of sugar. 'A high sugar intake can also increase oil production, as insulin creates the hormone IGF-1 which can increase the production of sebum,' explains Pfeffer.
6. Consider Your Hormones
Internal hormone fluctuations are one of the main causes of imbalanced oil levels, according to Marshall. 'It's the androgen hormone that is causing the issue,' she says. 'When androgen is in abundance (which it often is right before your period, or if you have PCOS), it will send messages to our sebaceous glands telling them to produce more oil.'
Androgens can also be released in times of stress, or through internal shifts such as the menstrual cycle, contraception, puberty, pregnancy and postnatal, and the menopause. In particular, multiple studies have indicated a positive correlation between stress levels and sebum production in people with acne-prone skin.
Of course, these situations are often out of your control, but you can attempt to maintain balance by paying attention to your sleep habits and stress levels.
7. Indulge In A Clay Mask
Today’s beauty shelves might be piled high with increasingly innovative formulas, but sometimes the oldest treatments remain the best.
Pfeffer is keen to remind us of the benefits of a good old clay mask: 'They’re fantastic allies when targeting oiliness as they act like sponges, absorbing excess oil,' she explains.
Thankfully, you don’t need to spend a fortune on a mud mask, either: simply look for one containing French green or bentonite clay, as these are generally the most absorbent. Kaolin clay is a great all-rounder, too.
8. Choose Your Foundation Wisely
When you’ve got oily skin, don’t restrict yourself to long-wear liquid foundations. Mineral powders come with so many benefits: not only are they largely non-comedogenic (meaning they won’t clog your pores), they’re unrivalled in the oil-absorbing department, and can easily be layered up as the day goes on.
But if you're loyal to a liquid, that's fine too – just invest in a great setting powder to seal the deal.
'The Laura Mercier Translucent Loose Setting Powder is my holy grail powder for oily complexions as it keeps skin shine-free for hours on end,' says make-up artist Gabriella Floyd, who has a pretty clever oil-eliminating technique of her own.
'My top tip is to apply it using a damp Beautyblender,' she says. 'This allows you to really press the powder into your skin so it doesn't budge as the day goes on.'
If you're on the go, it's fine to use a pressed powder to stop your foundation from slipping off, as long as it's super-light. 'To prevent shine throughout the day, pick up something really finely milled like Charlotte Tilbury's Airbrush Flawless Finish,' adds Floyd. 'You can keep topping it up and it never, ever gets cake-y, which is why it's a go-to powder in my kit - for my clients and myself.'
Bella Hadid on quitting alcohol: 'I felt like I wouldn’t be able to control myself'
Bella Hadid on quitting alcohol: 'I felt like I wouldn’t be able to control myself'
The UK's drinking isn't in the healthiest shape, right now.
By the end of October 2021, over a fifth of UK adults were drinking to harmful levels, according to government research, driven by people imbibing more, over longer periods of time, in their own homes.
Research carried out by King's College London in May 2020 found that 29% of people reported that they had drunk more than they normally would
What's more, research published in the journal Addictive Behaviour noted that women were more likely than men to drink to cope with the stress of the pandemic.
But that isn't the whole picture of the pandemic's affect on drinking habits. Research from charity Alcohol Change shows that one in three British people reported reducing their consumption of the hard stuff when the whole country was in lockdown.
And let's be clear: cutting alcohol down, or out completely, is a win from your body and mind's point of view. Excessive alcohol consumption is linked to more than 200 diseases, thousands of injuries and causes three million deaths a year globally. In January, a study confirmed alcohol to be a direct cause of cancer.
While swerving booze, wholesale? Research shows this has proven benefits for sleep, energy, weight, immunity and stress.
So, if you're looking to cut down on or ditch alcohol, the first thing to say is: good choice! The second? That you are in esteemed company.
May we present: 53 celebrities who don't drink alcohol. Here's to their healthy habits inspiring your own.
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