Think twice before asking for the Russian lip filler technique, warns expert

If you’ve been considering and doing research into lip fillers, you’ll have almost certainly come across the “Russian lip technique” on your Google or social media travels. This method of injecting lip filler is increasing in popularity thanks to Instagram, where hundreds and hundreds of posts show some very impressive lifted lip results.

If you haven’t heard of the Russian lip technique, or you’re not quite sure what the look is, Dr Dean Rhobaye, plastic surgeon and facial aesthetics specialist at Sloane Clinic on Harley Street, explains that the process involves injecting filler vertically into the lip, drawing out to the outer edge. The result is a defined and lifted top and bottom lip with a heart-like shape. A regular lip filler treatment, on the other hand, would usually see an injector add volume with filler – rather than use it purely to lift – with horizontal injections.

Getty The Russian lip filler technique involves injecting filler vertically into the lip, drawing out to the outer edge

Before you run to book an appointment with this technique in mind, there are a few things you should know. Dr Rhobaye warns against being influenced by the before and afters you see on Instagram, and instead says people should be guided by their natural lip shape instead.

So what’s the issue with the Russian technique, you ask? Unfortunately, the results of this technique don't always look good outside of the Instagram selfies you see on your grid.

“The issue is, this treatment makes people go beyond the boundaries of what their natural lips can take. Not all lips look good manipulated in this way,” Dr Rhobaye points out.

“You have to think about the longer term, as well. The lips might look good in a certain lighting at one certain angle, but while the Russian technique can give lips height, it also tends to flatten lips. You lose the natural contours of the lip.”

© Instagram / Dr Dean Rhobaye (@deanrhobaye) Dr Rhobaye shows how lips can be given a natural looking boost within the parameters of the original lip shape

Dr Rhobaye also points out that the numerous vertical tracks, created when the needle enters the lips to inject the filler, can cause scarring with repeat top-up appointments. “It’s just a really poor technique,” he says. “If you don’t experience scarring, there’s still the risk that these little tracks will cause the filler to migrate, resulting in a puffy upper ledge.”

Don’t let this dishearten you from booking in for a lip filler appointment – many aesthetic specialists will offer good guidance on the amount and placement of filler to suit your natural lip shape. Dr Rhobaye, for example, spends 30-60 minutes with every patient to make sure expectations are managed and that the results will be natural and beautiful.

If lift is something you’re after, a good aesthetician should be able to advise how to achieve the result you want within the parameters your natural lips can take. After all, nobody wants to walk away with a puffy pout – even if it does look good on a selfie